Honduras Katia Duke Yellow Obata

Katia Duke farms San Isidro at 1,300 meters outside Ruinas de Copán, and she has spent fourteen harvests there building a system around one premise, that what ends up in the cup comes out of the field and through the hands of the people working it. For this lot she took her Yellow Obata and processed it as a full natural, drying whole cherry with all the fruit still attached. Then the entire lot moved into her house, where her crew spread it across small screens and sorted it by hand at her kitchen table. That went on for two months, and it produced four bags for the year. We have two of them and Little Waves in Durham has the other two. Sangria and opal apple lead, papaya and butterscotch fill in underneath, and it drinks custardy and round with a tropical acidity.


Quantity

San Isidro sits about fifteen minutes outside Ruinas de Copán, and Katia Duke has been farming it as her own since 2012. She says that first harvest produced some very nice coffee and also some very nice phenols, which is the kind of joke you only make once you are far enough past it to laugh. Fourteen harvests later she runs a production system built around quality in the field and the quality of life of the people doing the work, and she is direct that the two are the same problem.

Some of those people have been with her the entire time. José Luis and Teresa have worked at San Isidro since the beginning, and so has María Elena, who leads the crews in the field and teaches every new picker how the harvest runs. That last job is bigger than it sounds. Migration pulls workers away constantly, so training is a permanent condition rather than a seasonal task, and María Elena is why the standard holds anyway.

The variety in this bag is Yellow Obata, a Sarchimor selection that carries leaf rust resistance down through the Timor Hybrid and ripens yellow instead of red. Katia processed it as a full natural, whole cherry dried with the fruit left on, which she rates as considerably harder than the honey process she is better known for. A natural will turn on you the moment you stop watching it, and it has to be raked and moved constantly through a long dry. From there the lot went to her kitchen. Not a mill and not a sorting facility, her kitchen, where her crew spread the coffee over small screens and worked through it bean by bean for two months while she lived around them. She says there were people everywhere, and that what she wanted by the end of it was her house back. Four bags came out of the whole exercise. We bought two and Little Waves in Durham bought the other two, which is every bag of it in the country.

On our table it came up fruity and sweet in equal measure, both at 4 of 5. Sangria and opal apple lead, papaya and butterscotch sit behind them, and red Jolly Rancher and green mango turn up further back. Custardy and round, tropical acidity, roasted light so none of it gets buried.

Producer: Katia Duke, San Isidro
Region: Copán, Honduras
Altitude: 1,300 MASL
Variety: Yellow Obata
Processing Method: Natural

Honduras Katia Duke Yellow Obata

Honduras Katia Duke Yellow Obata

$30.00
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Tasting Notes

Sangria, Opal Apple, Papaya, and Butterscotch

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Roast Level

Light

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Body

Custardy, round

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Acidity

Tropical

  • What does natural process mean?

    The whole coffee cherry gets dried with the fruit still on it, like a raisin, and the bean gets hulled out at the end. All that fruit sugar ferments right against the bean, which is where the tropical fruit in this cup comes from. It is the oldest way to process coffee and also the easiest one to ruin, because wet fruit sitting in the heat will over-ferment fast if nobody is turning it. Katia's crew turns it constantly, which is why this one cups as clean as it does.

    It tastes like sangria. Is that real?

    Yes, and it is the most fun thing on the bar right now. Red fruit, a little wine-like depth, sweet without being sugary. It is what a well-run natural does when nobody lets it drift.

    Papaya? In a Honduran coffee?

    Most Honduran coffee people have had is chocolate and nut, because most of it is washed. Change the process and the same farm gives you something else entirely. This is Katia's fruit-forward lot and it does not drink like a typical Central American at all.

    What is Yellow Obata?

    A Sarchimor variety, which means Villa Sarchi crossed with Timor Hybrid. It carries real leaf rust resistance and it ripens yellow instead of red. It matters in Honduras, where rust wiped out most of the country's crop in 2012.

    Is this similar to an Ethiopian natural?

    Same idea, different result. Ethiopian naturals usually go blueberry and floral. This one goes red fruit and tropical, with a heavier, custardy body underneath. Floral scored low on our table.

    Is this good for espresso?

    It will pull sweet and fruit-forward with real body, but it is a light roast microlot and it is going to be brighter than a blend shot. Filter shows it off best.

    Is this a light, medium, or dark roast?

    Light. The fruit is the whole reason to drink it and a darker roast would trade that for caramel.

    How much of this is there?

    Four bags came off the entire harvest. We have two and Little Waves in Durham has the other two. When it is gone it is gone until next year, and Katia has said she is not sure she can repeat the hand-sorting at this scale.

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